The Temple of the Leper King: A Quiet Corner of Angkor Thom

A Quiet Corner of Angkor Thom

Most visitors to Angkor Thom rush from the Bayon to the Terrace of the Elephants, then on to the jungle-clad temples of Ta Prohm. But just behind the Terrace of the Elephants, tucked against the north wall of the Royal Square, lies a lesser-visited gem: the Terrace of the Leper King. It is a double terrace, with an inner wall that was discovered in the early 20th century, and it is one of the most intricate and mysterious carvings in the entire Angkor complex.

We like to bring our guests here in the late afternoon, when the tour buses have moved on and the light turns golden. The terrace is a platform of laterite and sandstone, about 25 metres long and 6 metres high, built in the late 12th century under King Jayavarman VII. The outer wall is covered with rows of carved figures: deities, demons, and warriors, all with serene or fierce expressions. The inner wall, which you can reach by a narrow passage, is even more striking, with its deep bas-reliefs that seem to glow in the dim light.

The Legend of the Leper King

The terrace takes its name from a statue that once stood on top of it, now a replica (the original is in the National Museum in Phnom Penh). The statue is of a seated figure, naked and with a faint smile, and it has been the subject of much speculation. Some say it depicts a king who contracted leprosy, perhaps Jayavarman VII himself, who was said to have suffered from the disease. Others believe it is Yama, the god of the dead, or a guardian of the underworld. The French archaeologist Georges Coedès even suggested it might be a representation of a legendary king who was punished for his cruelty.

Whatever the truth, the terrace has a haunting quality. The inner passage is narrow and cool, and the carved figures seem to watch you as you walk. It is easy to imagine the royal processions that once passed here, and the rituals that may have taken place in the shadows.

The Carvings: A Study in Detail

What makes the Terrace of the Leper King so special is the quality of the carving. Unlike the more weathered reliefs at the Bayon, these figures are sharp and well-defined. You can see the individual folds of cloth, the intricate headdresses, and the expressive faces. The outer wall is divided into tiers, with scenes of courtly life, battle, and mythology. Look for the figures of the naga, the multi-headed serpent, which appear throughout Khmer art as symbols of protection and fertility.

Take your time here. Walk the length of the terrace, then descend into the narrow passage to see the inner wall. The passage is only about a metre wide, and the light filters through gaps in the stone, creating a play of shadows. It is a place that rewards patience and observation.

Getting there from the villa

From our villa in Siem Reap, the Terrace of the Leper King is about 8 kilometres north, a 20-minute drive along the main road to Angkor Thom. You will enter Angkor Thom through the South Gate, with its famous causeway of gods and demons, then continue straight for about 1.5 kilometres to the Bayon. The Terrace of the Leper King is just north of the Bayon, across the open square. Your tuk-tuk driver will know the way. If you are cycling, the ride is flat and pleasant, but the heat can be intense, so start early or go in the late afternoon. We recommend hiring a guide for an hour or two to explain the carvings and the history; ask your host for a recommendation.

Good to know

• The Terrace of the Leper King is part of the Angkor Archaeological Park, so you will need an Angkor pass. Check the current prices at the official ticket office, or ask your host.
• The site is open from 5:30 am to 6:00 pm, but the best light is in the late afternoon, around 4 pm, when the crowds are thin.
• Wear comfortable shoes, as the passageways can be uneven, and bring water. There are no shops or stalls nearby, so come prepared.
• The inner passage is narrow and can be claustrophobic; if you are not comfortable, you can still appreciate the outer wall from the top terrace.

More Cambodia stories: The Art of Khmer Stone Carving: A Morning at the Angkor Handicraft Center

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