The Sweet Scent of Rice Wine: A Morning in Preah Dak

The Sweet Scent of Rice Wine: A Morning in Preah Dak

Just a short drive from Siem Reap, the village of Preah Dak is known for its ancient temples and quiet lanes, but it is also home to a craft that fills the morning air with a sweet, yeasty aroma: rice wine. For generations, families here have fermented sticky rice into a clear, potent spirit that is both a daily drink and a ceremonial offering. We visited one such family workshop, where the process is still done much as it was a century ago.

The Making of Sra

The heart of the workshop is a row of large clay jars, each filled with cooked rice and a homemade starter culture. The rice is steamed in a huge wooden barrel over an open fire, then spread on bamboo mats to cool. Once cool, it is mixed with the starter and packed into the jars, where it will ferment for several days. The air is thick with the smell of sweet, sour mash. After fermentation, the rice is transferred to a large copper still, heated by a wood fire below. The clear liquid that drips from the still is the raw sra, which is then aged in smaller jars to mellow its sharpness.

We were invited to taste the fresh sra straight from the still. It was warm and fiery, with a surprising sweetness and a hint of banana. The family also offered a version aged for a year, which was smoother and more complex. They explained that rice wine is not just for drinking; it is used in cooking, in traditional medicine, and in offerings at temples and ceremonies. The process is slow and labor-intensive, but the family takes pride in their craft, and they are happy to share it with visitors.

A Village Stroll

After the tasting, we took a walk through Preah Dak. The village is a maze of dirt paths lined with wooden houses on stilts, many with chickens and pigs underneath. We passed a small temple, Wat Preah Dak, with its weathered sandstone carvings, and saw farmers tending their rice paddies. The pace is slow, and people greet you with a smile. We stopped at a small shop that sold jars of the village’s rice wine, as well as palm sugar and other local products. The shopkeeper was happy to chat and told us about the different grades of wine, from the everyday table wine to the stronger, more expensive variety.

Getting there from the villa

Preah Dak is about 20 kilometers east of Siem Reap, a 30-40 minute drive by tuk-tuk or car. From the villa, head east on the road towards Banteay Srei, then turn off at the sign for Preah Dak. The road is paved most of the way, with a short stretch of dirt road in the village. Your host can arrange a tuk-tuk for you, or you can rent a bicycle if you are feeling energetic. The drive is scenic, passing through rice fields and small villages. Ask your driver to wait for you, as there is no regular public transport back.

Good to know

• Best time to visit: Morning, before the heat of the day. The fermentation and distilling usually happen early, so you can see the process in action and taste the freshest sra.
• What to wear: Comfortable clothes and shoes for walking. The workshop can be hot and steamy, so dress in light layers.
• Tasting etiquette: It is customary to accept a small glass when offered, but you can decline politely if you prefer. The wine is strong, so sip slowly.
• Buying wine: If you want to take some home, ask for a bottle that is properly sealed. The wine is often sold in recycled bottles, so check the cork. You can also buy it at the shop in the village, but check locally for the current price.

Staying in Siem Reap? Our 6-bedroom villa with a private pool sleeps 12 and sits 15 minutes from Angkor Wat — see our rates and availability.