The Sweet Craft of Khmer Cheesemaking: A Morning in Siem Reap

A Surprising Find in the Cambodian Countryside

When most people think of Cambodian food, they picture fish amok, palm sugar, and rice noodles. Cheese does not usually come to mind. But just a short drive from Siem Reap, in the quiet countryside around the village of Chreav, a small cheesemaking operation is turning local water buffalo milk into fresh, tangy cheeses that would not look out of place in a French fromagerie.

We first heard about it from a guest who had stumbled upon it during a bike ride. Curious, we set out one morning to find it. The road took us past rice paddies, palm trees, and the occasional ox cart. After about twenty minutes, we turned onto a dirt lane lined with acacia trees and found ourselves at a modest farmstead. The smell of fresh milk and hay filled the air, and a friendly Khmer farmer greeted us with a wide smile.

The Art of Buffalo Milk Cheese

The farm, which operates under the name Ferme de Siem Reap, is a collaboration between a Cambodian family and a French cheesemaker who settled in the area years ago. They use milk from their own herd of water buffalo, which graze on the lush grasses of the surrounding fields. The milk is rich and creamy, with a higher fat content than cow’s milk, making it ideal for soft cheeses.

We watched as the cheesemaker, a wiry man with flour-dusted hands, demonstrated the process. He heated the milk in a large stainless-steel vat, added rennet and cultures, and then cut the curd into small cubes. The curds were gently stirred, then ladled into molds. Within hours, the cheeses would be ready to eat. The farm produces a range of styles, from a fresh, spreadable cheese similar to ricotta to a firmer, aged variety with a bloomy rind.

Tasting the Fruits of Their Labor

After the demonstration, we were invited to taste. The fresh cheese was mild and slightly sweet, with a clean, milky finish. The aged cheese had a more pronounced flavor, earthy and nutty, with a hint of grassiness. We spread some on crusty bread and drizzled it with local honey. It was a simple pleasure, but one that felt distinctly Cambodian and French at the same time.

The farm also makes a tangy yogurt from the same buffalo milk, thick enough to eat with a spoon. We bought a jar to take back to the villa. It was gone by the next morning.

Getting there from the villa

From our villa in Siem Reap, head south on the main road toward Chreav commune. After about 8 kilometers, you will see a sign for the farm on your left. The entire journey takes roughly 20 minutes by car or tuk-tuk. If you are feeling adventurous, you can cycle there in about an hour, following the back roads through the rice fields. The farm is open to visitors in the morning, from around 9 to 11, when the cheesemaking is in full swing. It is best to call ahead to confirm, as the farm is a working operation and sometimes closes for private events.

Good to know

• The farm is a working dairy, so wear closed-toe shoes and be prepared for a bit of mud.
• You can buy cheese and yogurt to take home, but bring a cooler bag if you plan to be out for a while.
• Ask your host to arrange a visit; they can help with directions and translation if needed.
• The best time to visit is during the dry season, from November to February, when the roads are passable and the weather is pleasant.

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