The Slow Art of Khmer Pottery: A Morning in Chreav Commune

The road to Chreav

Just a few kilometres east of Siem Reap town, the sealed road gives way to a dusty lane that winds through rice paddies and sugar palm groves. This is Chreav commune, a cluster of villages where the craft of pottery has been passed down through generations. We set out early, before the heat of the day, and within twenty minutes we were parking the car under a shade tree near the village temple.

The first thing you notice is the sound: a soft, rhythmic thudding that carries across the fields. It is the sound of wooden paddles striking wet clay, shaping a vessel on a spinning wheel. Follow that sound and you will find the potters.

The potters and their clay

In Chreav, the potters are mostly women, and they work in the open air, under thatched roofs or simply in the shade of their wooden stilt houses. The clay is dug from the nearby fields, then mixed with sand and water, and kneaded by foot until it is smooth and pliable. Watching a potter at work is hypnotic. She sits low on the ground, her legs extended, and spins a flat stone disc with her toes. With her hands, she pulls the clay upward, then shapes it with a wet cloth and a wooden paddle.

We spent a morning with one potter, Mrs. Sok, who has been making pots since she was a girl. She showed us how to roll the clay into coils, how to join them, and how to smooth the surface with a piece of gourd. Her hands moved with a confidence that comes from decades of practice. She told us that the pots are fired in a simple kiln, using rice husks and wood, and that the best pots are the ones that ring like a bell when tapped.

The village and its rhythm

The pottery village is not a tourist attraction in the usual sense. There are no ticket booths or souvenir shops. Instead, you wander through the lanes and see pots drying in the sun, stacked in pyramids, or being loaded onto a cart to be taken to the market. The villagers are used to visitors, but they are not performing. They are simply going about their work, and if you stop to watch, they will often smile and offer a few words in Khmer, or gesture for you to try your hand at the wheel.

We tried. It is harder than it looks. Our pots wobbled and collapsed, and Mrs. Sok laughed kindly and reshaped them with a few deft touches. The clay is cool and gritty, and the smell of wet earth and wood smoke hangs in the air. It is a place where time moves slowly, and where the value of a thing is measured in the patience it takes to make it.

Getting there from the villa

From the villa, head east on National Road 6, then turn south towards Chreav commune. The drive takes about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on traffic. You can also take a tuk-tuk, which is a pleasant way to travel, as you can enjoy the breeze and the sight of the countryside waking up. Ask your host for the exact route, as the lanes are not well signposted. The best time to visit is in the morning, before the heat of the day, when the potters are most active.

Good to know

• The potters are happy to have visitors, but it is polite to ask before taking photographs, and to buy a small pot or two if you can. The prices are modest, and the money goes directly to the families.
• Wear comfortable shoes and clothes that you do not mind getting dusty. The village lanes are unpaved, and the clay can be messy, especially after rain.
• There are no restaurants or cafes in the village, so bring water and a snack, or plan to return to Siem Reap for lunch.
• If you want to try making a pot, just ask. The potters are generous with their time, and they will guide you through the process, though you should not expect to produce anything that resembles a vessel.

Staying in Siem Reap? Our 6-bedroom villa with a private pool sleeps 12 and sits 15 minutes from Angkor Wat — see our rates and availability.