The Red Earth of Banteay Srei: A Morning at the Laterite Quarries

We leave the villa early, while the light is still soft and the air holds a little coolness. Our destination is the laterite quarries near Banteay Srei, about 35 kilometres northeast of Siem Reap. The drive takes around an hour, passing through bright green rice fields and small villages where children wave from the roadside. As we turn off the main road, the landscape changes: the earth turns a deep, rusty red, and we know we have arrived.

The quarries of Banteay Srei

Laterite is a porous, iron-rich stone that hardens when exposed to air. It was used for the foundations and walls of many Angkorian temples, including the base of Banteay Srei itself. The quarries here are not formal tourist sites but working pits where local people still cut blocks by hand. We park at the edge of a shallow excavation and watch a team of three men lever a large rectangular block from the ground. The stone is wet and heavy, and it smells of damp clay and iron. The men use simple iron bars and their own strength, and the rhythm of their work is steady and unhurried. We are careful to keep a respectful distance and to ask before taking photos.

A craft of earth and fire

Laterite is soft when first cut and hardens over time. The workers shape each block with a machete-like tool, trimming the edges to fit the next course of a wall. We see stacks of finished blocks waiting to be loaded onto a truck. Some will go to repair temple foundations, others to build local houses and fences. The ground underfoot is slippery with red mud, and our shoes are soon stained. The sun climbs higher, and the red dust rises in the heat. We are offered a drink of palm juice by one of the workers, and we sit on a pile of laterite offcuts to talk. They tell us that the quarry has been in use for generations, and that the stone from here was likely used at Banteay Srei, just a few kilometres away.

Beyond the quarry

After the quarry, we drive a short distance to Banteay Srei temple itself. The pink sandstone carvings are famous, but seeing them after the quarry gives them a new weight. We understand the labour behind the walls. On the way back, we stop at a small roadside stall in Preah Dak village for a bowl of rice noodles. The broth is light and peppery, and the noodles are made fresh that morning. It is a simple meal, but it tastes of the place.

Getting there from the villa

We arrange a car and driver for this trip, as the quarry tracks are sandy and not suitable for bicycles. The drive from the villa to the quarries takes around one hour. We recommend leaving by 7am to see the quarrymen at work before the heat of the day. The last few hundred metres are on a dirt track, and in the wet season a sturdy vehicle is essential. Ask your host to help you arrange transport and to confirm that the quarry is active on the day you plan to visit.

Good to know

• Wear shoes you do not mind getting red dust on; the laterite stains clothing.
• Bring water and a hat; there is little shade at the quarry.
• Always ask before photographing the workers, and respect their space.
• Check locally for the best time to visit, as quarrying activity varies with the season.

Staying in Siem Reap? Our 6-bedroom villa with a private pool sleeps 12 and sits 15 minutes from Angkor Wat — see our rates and availability.