The Quiet Craft of Khmer Kites: A Morning in Svay Dangkum

A Morning of Bamboo and Paper

We start early, just after breakfast, when the air is still cool and the light is soft. Our destination is Svay Dangkum commune, a short ride from the villa. Here, in a quiet lane off the main road, we find a workshop where Khmer kites are made by hand. The smell of fresh bamboo shavings mixes with the earthy scent of rice paper. We hear the rhythmic tap of a small mallet shaping bamboo strips, and the soft rustle of paper being cut.

The artisan, a man in his sixties, has been making kites for decades. He shows us how to split bamboo into thin, flexible ribs, then soak them in water to make them pliable. The frame takes shape on a wooden jig, each piece tied with cotton thread. We watch as he applies a paste made from sticky rice to glue the paper. The kite is a traditional Khmer design, often called a ‘khleng ek’, which makes a musical sound as it flies. The paper is plain, but some kites are painted with simple patterns in red and black.

The Khleng Ek: A Kite That Sings

The khleng ek is not just a toy. It is a musical instrument of the sky. The artisan attaches a small bow-shaped bamboo reed to the kite. When the wind passes over it, it produces a haunting hum. We are told that in the past, farmers flew these kites to pray for good weather and a good harvest. The sound is said to carry their wishes to the gods. Today, few people make them, but the craft survives in places like Svay Dangkum.

We spend an hour learning to tie the knots and balance the frame. It is delicate work. The kite must be symmetrical, or it will spin and crash. Our host laughs as we fumble with the thread. He says patience is the most important tool. We leave with a new appreciation for this simple object that carries so much history.

A Stroll Through the Commune

After the workshop, we walk through the lanes of Svay Dangkum. It is a residential area, not a tourist spot. We pass small shops and houses with wooden shutters. Chickens scratch in the dirt. A woman sells num banh chok from a cart, and the smell of fish curry and fresh herbs makes us hungry. We stop for a bowl. The noodles are cool and springy, the broth fragrant with lemongrass and turmeric. It costs a few thousand riel, but ask your host for the current price.

Further along, we see a group of children flying a simple plastic kite in an empty lot. They run and laugh, and the kite dips and dives. It is a reminder that kites are still part of childhood here, even if the traditional ones are rarer.

Getting there from the villa

Svay Dangkum is just a few minutes by tuk-tuk from the villa. Tell your driver you want to go to Svay Dangkum commune, near the primary school. The workshop is in a side lane; ask locally for the kite maker. It is best to go in the morning, before the heat builds. The ride should take around 10 to 15 minutes, depending on traffic. You can also cycle, but the roads are busy, so we recommend a tuk-tuk.

Good to know

• The workshop is a private home, so it is polite to call ahead or ask your host to arrange a visit. Do not just show up.
• Bring small notes in riel if you wish to buy a kite or leave a donation. Prices vary, so ask your host for guidance.
• Wear comfortable shoes and clothes you do not mind getting a little dusty. The lanes are unpaved in places.
• The best time to see kites flying is in the late afternoon when the wind picks up, but the workshop is best visited in the morning.

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