The Art of Khmer Fish Amok: A Cooking Class in Svay Dangkum

A Morning in Svay Dangkum

Just a short tuk-tuk ride from the center of Siem Reap, the village of Svay Dangkum is a patchwork of rice fields, sugar palm trees, and wooden houses on stilts. Here, away from the bustle of Pub Street, our guests often find themselves slowing down to the rhythm of village life. We begin our day at the local market, Psar Svay, a smaller, less chaotic cousin of the old market. The air is thick with the scent of lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and galangal, and vendors greet us with warm smiles as we pick out the day’s ingredients.

The Heart of the Dish: Fish Amok

Fish amok is Cambodia’s most celebrated dish, a rich, creamy curry steamed to perfection in banana leaves. The key is in the kroeung, a fresh curry paste that is pounded in a mortar and pestle. In the cooking class at the family home of our host, Mrs. Srey Mom, we learn to make this paste from scratch. We pound shallots, garlic, lemongrass, turmeric, and galangal together, the fragrant oils releasing with each rhythmic thump. The paste is then mixed with coconut milk, fish sauce, and a touch of palm sugar, creating a silky, aromatic sauce. The fish, usually a firm white fish like snakehead or tilapia, is folded in gently, then the mixture is spooned into banana leaf cups and steamed until just set.

The Class at Mrs. Srey Mom’s Home

Mrs. Srey Mom’s home is a traditional Khmer wooden house, raised on stilts, with a large open-air kitchen. The class is intimate, limited to just a few guests, so we get plenty of personal attention. We learn not only the recipe but also the stories behind it. Mrs. Srey Mom explains how amok is often served at celebrations and festivals, and how each family has its own variation. We also try our hand at making fresh coconut milk, grating the meat and squeezing it through a cloth. The whole process takes about two hours, and at the end, we sit down to enjoy our creation with steamed rice and a fresh mango salad.

Beyond Amok: Other Dishes to Try

The class also includes a quick lesson on making another Khmer classic, lok lak, a stir-fried beef dish with a tangy lime and pepper sauce. We also learn to make a simple but refreshing green mango salad, which is the perfect counterpoint to the rich amok. These dishes are all part of the same family of Khmer flavors, and mastering them gives us a deeper appreciation for the cuisine. We leave with a printed recipe card and a full stomach, already planning to recreate the dishes at home.

Getting there from the villa

From our villa, it’s about a 15-minute tuk-tuk ride to Svay Dangkum village. Your host can arrange a tuk-tuk for you, or you can cycle if you’re feeling energetic. The ride is flat and pleasant, passing through quiet lanes lined with sugar palms and lotus ponds. The class is held in the morning, starting around 9 am, so you’ll have the afternoon free to explore the temples or relax by the pool.

Good to know

• The class is suitable for vegetarians, as the kroeung paste can be made without fish sauce, and tofu can be substituted for fish.
• Wear comfortable clothes and closed-toe shoes, as you’ll be standing at a low table and using a mortar and pestle.
• Ask your host to arrange the class for you, as it’s not always advertised publicly. The cost is reasonable and includes all ingredients and the meal.
• Bring a camera to capture the colorful ingredients and the beautiful presentation of the dishes.

Staying in Siem Reap? Our 6-bedroom villa with a private pool sleeps 12 and sits 15 minutes from Angkor Wat — see our rates and availability.